View Full Version : One reason NOT to use a wet kit on a fuel injected car....
mbaskett
02-25-2001, 09:54 PM
this is a dyno video of Fireball's car with a TNT wet kit (http://www.digiweb.com/~efa/FIREBALL.mpg)
LS1 intake manifolds were NOT designed to flow air saturated with fuel!!!!!!!!!!!!
Makes me glad I opted for the dry kit... as this will NEVER happen to me......
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358 RWHP 352 RWTQ N/A
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437 RWHP 514 RWTQ with 2nd set of foglights on.
11.7 @ 120
I whipped the LS1 GrandMaster
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Mir Hussain
02-25-2001, 10:56 PM
WTF http://www.torquecentral.com/tc_forum/eek.gif
Damn !
Och http://www.torquecentral.com/tc_forum/frown.gif
yyz28
02-26-2001, 08:14 AM
OOOOOOOOHHH... Nice form, but a little rough on the landing, he may have to settle for the bronze... http://www.torquecentral.com/tc_forum/biggrin.gif
2K1 LS1
02-27-2001, 10:19 AM
All I can say is http://www.torquecentral.com/tc_forum/eek.gif daaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaamn that sucks. Hope that doesn't happen on my car, oh wait I am selling the NOS. Sheeeew. http://www.torquecentral.com/tc_forum/biggrin.gif
Holy Shit!!! http://www.torquecentral.com/tc_forum/eek.gif http://www.torquecentral.com/tc_forum/eek.gif That guy is living up to his name for sure... hehe
Makes me glad I opted for thew dry kit to!!!
[This message has been edited by Juiced Joel (edited March 01, 2001).]
LJ_Z28
03-01-2001, 06:00 PM
Yeah, that must have been a scary sight to see coming from your own car. http://www.torquecentral.com/tc_forum/eek.gif
Jay Johnson
03-03-2001, 12:17 AM
The video speaks for itself, but indefense of
the wet kit I have never had a back fire or
thermonuclear explosion http://www.torquecentral.com/tc_forum/biggrin.gif
What was the jetting set to?
If you try to run a huge shot, it will require
a spraying window that is higher up in the rpm
so that the aerated fuel can get pulled into
the motor before it can settle.
The most critical time for the wet kit is at
lower rpms when the motor is breathing less.
If you spray a wet kit at low rpm, some of
the fuel can puddle, collect on the intake
surfaces, and eventually can fuel a backfire.
I would be interested to know what rpm he
started spraying, and was this the first
spray pull.
I've jetted up to 150shot on my wet kit and
it's alway just given me hella MPH.
I only sprayed in a window of 2800-6200 or
so, with HPP3 rev limiter changed. Although,
the recommend rpm window that I was told was
3000rpm and up, just a little more air flow
and safety from puddling.
the dry setup shoots, he scores http://www.torquecentral.com/tc_forum/smile.gif
I still like my wet kit with the safeties and
responsible usage.
Jay Johnson
RUNUDWN99T/A
03-05-2001, 07:31 AM
dont hold me to this but on ls1 he said he sprayed it at 3000 and the car hickuped is what did the back fire.it had been giving him problems before the dyno but he still used the bottle.i like the wet kits my self and that is what i have used in the past.i think they are safe if used right.if you have problems with it dont use it tell it is fixed or this is what will happen.its not the wet kits its was the user.
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Smooth Blue SS
03-14-2001, 11:01 AM
You can have a nitrous backfire with a dry kit as well. Either way you go, wet or dry, you can encounter problems. Bad things don't only happen to wet kits. I have seen a LS1 with a dry kit burn a valve because the maf did not compensate properly and the engine leaned out with only a 100 shot. Shit happens, its all part of the game. i have yet to see any power adder that worked perfectly all of the time and I know that I never will.
As far as this incident, depending on the size of the shot, 3000 RPM could be too low. When I was running my 150 TNT shot I was hitting it at 3500 on the dyno, just to be safe.
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'00 Bottlefed SS
Smooth Blue SS
03-14-2001, 11:10 AM
After watching that clip I am curious as to what caused that backfire. The one thing that sticks out in my mind is what the timing was at, meaning had the computer been reprogramed by either a Power programmer or by a actual tuner. If he is using the programming of a HPP3 then that could very well be the culprit. It appears that there might be too much timing, but I am just speculating.
Remember for every 50 hp shot you add to a motor you must pull out 2 degrees of timing.
[This message has been edited by Smooth Blue SS (edited March 14, 2001).]
LT12NV-420
03-23-2001, 08:28 PM
Wet Kits suck!
Jay Johnson
03-24-2001, 08:41 PM
I prefer the wet kits to dry kit that require
the pcm and fuel system to add the fuel that
is required.
I've seen a bunch of dry kits that don't make
the power that they are rated to.
I've never seen a wet kit not make the power
rating withing a few percent.
The wet kits require more install time,
hardware, care, and responsible usage than
the dry kits, but there will always be trade
offs even with the dry kits.
Jay Johnson
faster67
03-28-2001, 12:21 PM
Either kits can work well. A wet kit usually has a huge amount of torque when you first hit the button which is no good when you have radials. The nice thing about a wet kit is you can tune your fuel/air ratio with jets very easily.
With a dry kit on an LS1 you can totally control the hit by nozzle position. I've tried putting the nozzle in the airbox directly through the air cleaner and moving/pointing it all different directions with great success. Either kit can hurt the motor if the tune isn't good. I've hurt an LS1 with a dry kit by using a GMAF and a Hypertech with stock tuning. With Hypertech tuning and the GMAF was dead on at 12.8 fuel/air all the way across the board. Switch to stock tuning and *bang*. Now I have an AutoTap. http://www.torquecentral.com/tc_forum/biggrin.gif Next I'm gonna try a wet and dry kit on my friend's 98 SS with ARE heads/cam/intake. Shhhh don't tell him though. http://www.torquecentral.com/tc_forum/smile.gif
Fireball's backfire probably didn't have anything to do with the nitrous system itself but more with an engine problem that was ignored. Nitrous systems are very fickle things. When the work good it's great, when they work bad it's horrible.
Bernie
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