New GT40 Crate Motor; help, it doesn't run.

[88RX7LT1]

I had a new GT40 crate motor installed into a 1990 Volvo wagon. The donor is a 90 GT mustang, and the factory intake manifold, MAS, throttle body and (19lb) injecters were installed. It barely/doesn't idle. When the throttle stop is turned up, it will idle at say, 1.4k rpms. Under a load, it almost immediately dies.

I think the factory settings in the computer are leaning out the mixture. That bad boy now sucks way more air than the factory motor, and i'm betting my problem is related to 1) small injectors, 2) lean a/f ration, and/or 3) lack of adequate fuel pressure.

Any thoughts from you stang gurus on how to make this bad grocery getter run??? Thanks guys.

[Avalanche]

Fist question.

Did you get the wiring hareness from the GT? I.E. computer, and cables.

If you did not then you will need to have the computer reflashed to the codes of the GT. I say this because you are running it in a Volvo and a Volvo engine runs much more lean than a Domestic engine.

Second

Did you replace the easy stuff before you put the motor in? I.E. plugs, wires, distributor, rotor, fuel filter?

If it is dying at 1.4k then I would check the fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel lines including rails, plugs, wires, distributor(rotor and cap).

Let me know so I can help more if needed.

[88RX7LT1]

Fist question.

Did you get the wiring hareness from the GT? I.E. computer, and cables.

If you did not then you will need to have the computer reflashed to the codes of the GT. I say this because you are running it in a Volvo and a Volvo engine runs much more lean than a Domestic engine.

Yes I did


Second

Did you replace the easy stuff before you put the motor in? I.E. plugs, wires, distributor, rotor, fuel filter?

If it is dying at 1.4k then I would check the fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel lines including rails, plugs, wires, distributor(rotor and cap).

Let me know so I can help more if needed.

I'm sure we put new consumables in, but I'll check. The fuel filter is a great thought though. I bet we didn't check it.

Thanks for the help.

[Avalanche]

Let me know if the filter fixed the idle problem. I would also suggest to pull the injectors and give them a really good cleaning. If you are running 16 lb injectors then you might be starving the motor of fuel and you might want to think about uping them to 26 or 30 lb injectors. For future mods of course. :D

If you don't want to pull the injectors go to O'Rylies and get some of the fuel system cleaner that they sell. I forgot the name of it but it comes in a clear plastic bottle and is about 2 or 3 inches tall and it is also transparent kind of beer colored. Run that through your system and then change the filter again after one tank.

One other thought that I had. How long was the car sitting? If it was sitting for any amount of time you might need to drop the fuel tank and clean it out. They tend to have all the debri fall down to the strainer and then clog up the exit for the fuel and this could also be causing a lack of fuel pressure. A easy way to check this is to disconnect the battery and then disconnect the fuel line from the tank and see if you have a good folw of fuel coming form the tank.

Another thought, Your fuel pump if it is the original one that came with the car is probably at 90 cfm pump (but I could be wrong) The pump may not be dig enough for your engine and you might want to invest in a larger one.

It is always better to check the easy things first and then get into the more expensive items such as new fuel rails, solineoids.

Let me know if this helps anymore or not.

[88RX7LT1]

Let me know if the filter fixed the idle problem. I would also suggest to pull the injectors and give them a really good cleaning. If you are running 16 lb injectors then you might be starving the motor of fuel and you might want to think about uping them to 26 or 30 lb injectors. For future mods of course. :D

Waiting to install when the car returns from the engine swap guy, I have a trick flow track heat intake, fuel pressure regulator, new 24# injectors (bought used 46# injectors in anticipation of the Novi 1000) 70mm throttle body, and 73mm MAF. Am I missing anything? So in short, the intake stuff is going.

One other thought that I had. How long was the car sitting? If it was sitting for any amount of time you might need to drop the fuel tank and clean it out. They tend to have all the debri fall down to the strainer and then clog up the exit for the fuel and this could also be causing a lack of fuel pressure. A easy way to check this is to disconnect the battery and then disconnect the fuel line from the tank and see if you have a good folw of fuel coming form the tank.

Tru dat. Car sat for about nine months. I'll check it

Another thought, Your fuel pump if it is the original one that came with the car is probably at 90 cfm pump (but I could be wrong) The pump may not be dig enough for your engine and you might want to invest in a larger one.

My sources say that the factory fuel pump in this turbo version should work fine up to 450 hp.

It is always better to check the easy things first and then get into the more expensive items such as new fuel rails, solineoids.

Let me know if this helps anymore or not.
Tru dat. Thanks brother; all good advice. I'll try everything you suggest.

[Avalanche]

No problem we are here to help.

[88RX7LT1]

OK, if (when) I actually get this thing to run, what is the break-in procedure?

[Avalanche]

I would dive it fairly easy for about 300 for 500 miles cahnge the oil and then drive it like you stole it. :yeah:

The inital miles are for the rings and seals to setup and then after that dirve it like you are going to drive it everyday.

The one thing you do not want to do it baby it for 1 or 2 k and then hammer it this is bad on the rings.
Have fun and send pics of the install we (I) wouldl like to see the progress.

[88RX7LT1]

OK Boys, I’ve figured it out; the distributor is misaligned by a tooth (or more), but I'm dense and still need some help.

Ripped out Mustang intake; installed Trick Flow track heat, 24# injectors, 70mm throttle body and corresponding 73mm MAF. Re-installed distributor in same position.

It still didn’t run. I advanced the timing (turning the distributor counter-clockwise) with no success. As an experiment, I retarded the timing (turned it clockwise about 20 degrees) and it fired at a high idle. It got really hot really fast (glowed the exhaust manifolds red). It must be a tooth off.

Here’s my deal; I’m brain frozen. Do I simply lift the distributor and turn it counter clockwise by one tooth, or must I go through some sort of TDC procedure. Any thoughts (or more specifically, answers) are really appreciated.

BTW, when it ran, it sounded great. My exhaust guy is a genius. Can’t wait to stomp the Honda crowd at PIR with my grocery getter.

[DrHengle]

Its your call, You can just lift the distributor and move it a tooth and see where your at. It sounds like your not sure where your at so you may want to start fresh. (just to make sure our not 180 out)
Timing a ford from scratch is simple, just take your time.
Pull the #1 plug and roll it around to TDC (use a 15/16 socket on the front balancer nut to move the motor).
Look at the distributer cap there is a "1" marked on the cap make a little mark with a grease pencil so you know where that "1" is when you remove the cap the rotor bug should be pointing at your mark. if not then you can go from there, pull up the distributor and move it around until when the distrubutor is set it points to the mark you made.
(*you can also see that when you TDC the 1 cylinder that the timing mark on the balancer is alligned with the timing mark. as you work through it youll begin to "see" how it all comes together.)
tighten it all down and put your plug back and thats the basics of it.
Youll still need to fine tune it by moving the cap like you have been if your timing be ear. I prefer to put a light on it to get the base and then adjust it by driving keep advancing it a degree at a time till it pings out, back it off 2 degrees and tighten it down.
somebody jump in if Ive left anything out. i can see this in my mind, I may not have done the best at trying to explain it.
Doc

[Avalanche]

Doc you are correct in your explaination. I could not have said it any better.

Let us know how it works and I want to see some damn pictures!!!!!

[futant]

you can also ensure it is at tdc by plugging the no 1 hole with your finger and turn the engine over until you can feel air pressure. then use a screwdriver to ensure it is at the top. then look at the timing marker to see if it is even remotely close.
use a timing light set timing to 10*btdc-14*

[88RX7LT1]

you can also ensure it is at tdc by plugging the no 1 hole with your finger and turn the engine over until you can feel air pressure. then use a screwdriver to ensure it is at the top. then look at the timing marker to see if it is even remotely close.
use a timing light set timing to 10*btdc-14*

EEETS AAAAALLLLLIIIIIIIIIIVVVVEEE!!!! Not timing; vacuum problem (somewhere). I'll try to track it down, and maybe I have. I disconnectd the tube between the throttle body and the valve cover (at the oil filler stem), then I plugged it at the throttle body. It fired right up. I assume this is a temporary fix and that the vacuum leak is somewhere else? Any ideas?

BTW, here are a few pics. Its not even close to being done, but here it is.

[DrHengle]

possible that your pcv is set up wrong (or is bad) and your building too much crank case pressure. If she cant breath she cant run.
Doc

[88RX7LT1]

EEETS AAAAALLLLLIIIIIIIIIIVVVVEEE!!!!

its f*cking dead, and I can't figure it out. I can get it to run by advancing the timing by about 35 degrees btc. Then I time it to about 11 degrees btc. It runs but idles at approx. 1700 rpms. When I turn it off, it won't restart.

I've disconnected and plugged every location that might allow air back into the manifold (including removing the PCV from the lower manifold and plugging the hose). No difference.

Help; I am at a total loss. Any ideas??

[88RX7LT1]

possible that your pcv is set up wrong (or is bad) and your building too much crank case pressure. If she cant breath she cant run.
Doc
How would I test for this???

[88RX7LT1]

set timing to 10*btdc-14*

what do you mean by "-14"?

[DrHengle]

Ok, I think he's using the * for a degree's symbol so 14 degrees.
As for the pcv, it should run with out it,BUT it will effect how it runs.
You do not, I repeat do not want to plug off the line from the manifold or the valve cover. thats what i mean by letting it breath it you plug those off or the pcv is clogged. (there is a screen over the hole where you took the pcv valve out of the lower manifold, sometimes the gets build up) then the motor cant release the pressure. I say cant but that pressure will find a way out ie dipstick hole or blow out a main seal. Do not block those off it will create problems.
To test the pcv, just take it out and blow. clear on way and the check valve will block it the other.

I doubt this is the problem but it could contribute to the hard restart if the pressure is too high.
Im a bit confused now. You said you had it running good, what did you do to change that?
Im not sure where your at now, it still sounds like a timing issue to me.
When you try to restart, is it cranking fine but wont start. is it hard to turn over like dragging? Are you using a timing light? Need some more infor here......just remembering the simple stuff here, are you certain that you have the plugs in the right firing order? might want to double check.
Anyone else have some thoughts to help here? I just think it sounds like this is a timing/fire problem.
Doc
BTW, take a deep breath and relax, your down to working out the bugs now. youll find it, its just part of the game. ;)

[88RX7LT1]

THanks for the encouragement Doc.
Ok, I think he's using the * for a degree's symbol so 14 degrees.
I get it; 10 to 14 degrees.


As for the pcv, it should run with out it,BUT it will effect how it runs.
You do not, I repeat do not want to plug off the line from the manifold or the valve cover. thats what i mean by letting it breath it you plug those off or the pcv is clogged. (there is a screen over the hole where you took the pcv valve out of the lower manifold, sometimes the gets build up) then the motor cant release the pressure. I say cant but that pressure will find a way out ie dipstick hole or blow out a main seal. Do not block those off it will create problems.
To test the pcv, just take it out and blow. clear on way and the check valve will block it the other.
I'll check it, thank you. EDIT - checked it; no problem.


I doubt this is the problem but it could contribute to the hard restart if the pressure is too high.
Im a bit confused now. You said you had it running good, what did you do to change that?

It ran, just not good.


Im not sure where your at now, it still sounds like a timing issue to me.
When you try to restart, is it cranking fine but wont start. is it hard to turn over like dragging? Are you using a timing light? Need some more infor here......just remembering the simple stuff here, are you certain that you have the plugs in the right firing order? might want to double check.
Anyone else have some thoughts to help here? I just think it sounds like this is a timing/fire problem.

Cranks over fine. Pops but won't start right. When it did run, I set the timing (although it was revved to about 1700 rpm's, so I thing its a bit retarded.)


Doc
BTW, take a deep breath and relax, your down to working out the bugs now. youll find it, its just part of the game. ;)

Got it to start again; it ran for about five minutes before it quit. Again, it ran at high rpms and surged down every now and then, when it spit and sputtered. When it finally died, the cat started smoking and was red hot. Seems to be running rich. It cooled down and I pulled the #1 plug (and also made sure the TDC was correct; it was). The plug was soot black. BTW, I am running about 45# of fuel pressure.

I still have no clue on how to proceed. I think I'm going to by tweeker next week and run some data logs. Maybe the O2 sensors aren't adjusting the fuel trim adequately???

[88RX7LT1]

Installed twEECer hardware and ran some logs. At zero throttle, TPS reads about 1.2 volts. I'll fix it and try again.

[futant]

set fuel pressure to 40psi
take off the canister thing on the front most part of the throttle body and clean the hell out of it, I even filed down the plunger to alow it seal right so it wouldn't be bypassing any air
adjust the idle screw on the linkage so it will hopefully idle down.
double check all leads off that trickflow intake for a vacuum leak, I know it's a bitch i have one, but it sounds like you definately have a vacuum leak.
that and reset the TPS , probe green wire for voltage set it to ~.90 - .95
Don't do that .98 bullshit it will only bring problems. remember that when you adjust the idle stop it will change the TPS again.
have fun tinkering!

[88RX7LT1]

that and reset the TPS , probe green wire for voltage set it to ~.90 - .95
Don't do that .98 bullshit it will only bring problems.

The LT1 in my 88 rex has no voltage from the tps at closed throttle. Am I to understand that this ford needs ~ .9 to .95 volts at closed throttle? On the chev, such a setting would make it run rich (closed throttle=no air, PCM gives it gas???

THx. for your help futant

[futant]

You are understanding correctly set idle tps to .90-95 volts.
WOT should be roughly over 4.5 volts
in some situations it is even needed to widen then adjusting holes on the plastic tps sensor for aftermarket throttle bodies.
it helps alot to have an extra hand while probing the green wire since some one is needing to hold the sensor down until you can tighten up the two screws. then just recheck the setting once more while tight to be super duper duper sure. :D

[futant]

also pull your engine codes too
!

[88RX7LT1]

You are understanding correctly set idle tps to .90-95 volts.
WOT should be roughly over 4.5 volts
in some situations it is even needed to widen then adjusting holes on the plastic tps sensor for aftermarket throttle bodies.
it helps alot to have an extra hand while probing the green wire since some one is needing to hold the sensor down until you can tighten up the two screws. then just recheck the setting once more while tight to be super duper duper sure. :D

Thanks man. Set it to .92 volts, and dremeled the shit out of the holes to get it there.

Now it won't run no matter what I do??

This sucks.

[futant]

what was it at?
have you tried adjusting the idle stop?
does it even try to fire?

[88RX7LT1]

what was it at?
have you tried adjusting the idle stop?
does it even try to fire?

The TPS was putting out 1.2 volts.

The idle stop is disengaged (screwed all the way out, so it isn't touching.)

At this point, it makes one pop when I turn the key off. Usually, when it is cold, I can advance the timing to like 40-50 degrees btdc and it will fire, idling at about 1800 rmps. It also knocks (no surprise). So I retard the timing until it reads about 15 degrees btdc (still idling at 17-1800 rpms, so 15 degrees at that RPM should get me about 10 degrees at idle?) It runs at about 1500 rpms until it warms up. Then it seems to run very rich, it sputters, fills the cat with fuel (making it glow) and dies. It won't start again until it is stone cold, and only when I go through the advance timing routine.

[futant]

first of all just set the timing to 12* btdc with the plug pulled out of the distributor harness. then reinstall plug.

open your damn idle stop! turn tighter until it touches then turn like 2 full turns.
reset TPS to .9

try to start it it will prob run really high like 2k rpms
try adjusting idle stop out to get idle down to like 1kthen reset tps again,
see the tinkering i was referring to?
also do yourself a favor and unplug the IAC before you do anything. that is the angled canister ON THE front side of the throttle body. it allows air to bypass around the blade. you really need to clean/check that thing first.

[88RX7LT1]

first of all just set the timing to 12* btdc with the plug pulled out of the distributor harness. then reinstall plug.

open your damn idle stop! turn tighter until it touches then turn like 2 full turns.
reset TPS to .9

try to start it it will prob run really high like 2k rpms
try adjusting idle stop out to get idle down to like 1kthen reset tps again,
see the tinkering i was referring to?
also do yourself a favor and unplug the IAC before you do anything. that is the angled canister ON THE front side of the throttle body. it allows air to bypass around the blade. you really need to clean/check that thing first.

ok, ok, I hear ya. I'm gonna tinker tonight. I managed to borrow a really cool vacuum leak tester from a client who owns a repair shop. Im gonna try that too. I'll report back, and thanks again futant.

[88RX7LT1]

I ran some data logs last night with tweecer RT and went throught the timing dance again. The O2 numbers were through the roof (like .8 to 1.6 volts). The plugs were drowning. No wonder it needs all that advance to keep running. Then, after it warms up, the O2 sensors read .1 volts and the motor leans out and dies. I am left with fried spark plugs (sooty) and a car that doesn't run. WTF would cause this? I am about ready to swap out the EEC for lack of imagination here.

[futant]

pull the codes!
yes swaping computers sounds like a good idea.

[88RX7LT1]

Missing 1/2 day's work, $300
30 mile drive out to the wrecking yard in Gresham, $10
New EEC-IV, $125
Same old shit, nothing changes, F*CKING PRICELESS

[futant]

damn i need your job
did you even pull the codes?

[88RX7LT1]

damn i need your job
did you even pull the codes?

Finally tinkered (and yes, pulled the codes). The fckn tranny kickback was holding the throttle open a hare. Fixed it, but still can't get it to idle. It slowly dies.
Tweeker RT is awesome, but it doesn't give the engine codes like the utility I use to read my LT1. It does, however, have other goodies.

In short, it tells me that the MAF is flowing about 28 kg/hr max. I don't know what this converts to in volts, but it is really low on the scale. To the point of my concern, the car threw a low MAF voltage code??? I have no idea how this could affect idle or the operation of the engine???? any ideas???

[futant]

code 66?
try clocking the maf around after you get the idle set/tps right again.
while it's idleing turn the maf until you can hear the idle go up alittle, normally that means you are getting better flow in that area and will bring th e voltage up. this is a typical problem if using aftermarket maf meters or CIA , and other un OEM intake piping

[88RX7LT1]

code 66?
try clocking the maf around after you get the idle set/tps right again.
while it's idleing turn the maf until you can hear the idle go up alittle, normally that means you are getting better flow in that area and will bring th e voltage up. this is a typical problem if using aftermarket maf meters or CIA , and other un OEM intake piping


Yup; code 66. I changed the MAF transfer table in twEECer, which increased the voltage.

I still can't get it to run. It will start, idle at about 2300 rpms, slowly decelerate, lean out and die.

I also tried to time it as my wife feathered the throttle. Its timed at like 35 degrees BTDC with the spout pulled. When I retard it to where it should be, it dies. My first thougth was that the distributor is a tooth off, but I've checked it twice, and when #1 piston is at TDC, the pointer is pointing to 0 on the harmonic balancer, and the rotor is pointing at #1 on the distributor??????

Its been a month since I've been f*cking with this thing, and I'm about to sell it for scrap and play with my chevy. :pissed:

EDIT

I sense a calming round of furious masturbation will solve all of my "f*cking" problems?

[futant]

well fuck i dunno what to tell you , mine likes 25btdc for no good reason i have found. Even if everyone else runs 14btdc
I ve even replaced the tfi, and run a crane ignition and coil at this point. besides plugs,wires etc.
I'm seriously thinking about forking over 200 for a msd distributor. I just don't fucking get it.
I should borrow someones dist. to see if it makes the difference.*hmmm thinking*

[futant]

that or swap computers *again*

[88RX7LT1]

well fuck i dunno what to tell you , mine likes 25btdc for no good reason i have found. Even if everyone else runs 14btdc
I ve even replaced the tfi, and run a crane ignition and coil at this point. besides plugs,wires etc.
I'm seriously thinking about forking over 200 for a msd distributor. I just don't fucking get it.
I should borrow someones dist. to see if it makes the difference.*hmmm thinking*
Ya futant, but yours runs doesn't it??? I can live with advanced timing. Some beefy cam type motors need more advance. But even when its advanced, it still doesn't run??

And no, new computer out of the question. Last one I bought came out of a running car.

EDIT

Oh ya, I forgot my frustration when I posted this. So...just kill me now.

[DrHengle]

Man you are having fits with that car. knowing little about the efi I just followed my old school habits and pulled it all off and went carbed, sometimes I wondered if I should have kept it but seeing your pain, Im glad I did. just a thought: if you pull all that off of there, sell it, buy your intake and carb, youll still have $$ in your pocket LOL good luck.

[88RX7LT1]

Yup, it ran last saturday. About 4 miles. What a beefy motor. I waited at a stop light with the car in neutral. When the light turned green, I shifted into drive and it died. It would start again until about 15 minutes later??? Managed to limp it home.

I'll keep plugging away.

Hey Futant, learn anything about your timing issues. This interests me because of the problems I'm having (I saw your post on corral).

[88RX7LT1]

also pull your engine codes too
!

No significant codes?

Alright; I've been dinking with this thing for a few months now. I've degreed the cam (its close enough to right on). I've replaced the distributor (instead of the PIP and TFI; it was about a wash), h20 sensors, idle air control, and ACT sensor. The maf is a new pro-m 75mm. the tps reads correctly at all ranges. The egr is blocked by a solid gasket for now. It still runs funky.

First, it still needs about 40* advance to start. The warmer it gets, the more advance it needs to start.

It doesn't want to idle under a load, and the warmer it gets, the worse it runs. At operating temp (180*) it pops and sputters? Any ideas?

[attatoy]

can i sudjest that you swap out your coil....seen a similar issue with a chev tbi ....and what seemed like a ignition moudual(and very well might have been was a bad coil that would do the weirdest things and eat mods. so we replaced them both and vola. sucsess....yo shold find that you can disconectthe os harnes from your motor and that it will run ...might help with eliminating things....as i went through hell when i installed my used motor as the harness was seperated and i did not know it......took me a week to find out that the map sensor and that part of the harness where not in the pic!
hope this helps.

[attatoy]

oh i almost for got ...this truck would not run at normal timing specks ...needed 50 degrees to run what seemed like normal.

[gammey4]

what do you have your fuel pressure set at? you should start (or have) around 40 psi at the rails. also have you checked to make sure your timing mark is correct when pointing at tdc? when it runs does it smoke at all? do you have any vacuum leaks? ford mass air cars are real sensitive to leaks in the intake tract, usually will idle high and then die or start surging real bad until it dies. also, stupid question, but you do have the arrow on the mass air meter pointing toward the throttle body right? (dont get offened ive seen it happen)

[Maxed]

Check your fuel pressure when the engine starts to die. This sounds like a possible bad fuel pump. It's sounds like the pump will build enough pressure to start then it drops off. I believe this will also lean the crap out of the motor.

-Allen

[deceiver]

can i sudjest that you swap out your coil....seen a similar issue with a chev tbi ....and what seemed like a ignition moudual(and very well might have been was a bad coil that would do the weirdest things and eat mods. so we replaced them both and vola. sucsess....yo shold find that you can disconectthe os harnes from your motor and that it will run ...might help with eliminating things....as i went through hell when i installed my used motor as the harness was seperated and i did not know it......took me a week to find out that the map sensor and that part of the harness where not in the pic!
hope this helps.

someone get this guy a beer - I concur... your coil is shit. that's the only problem I can think that would act just like this.. coils that go bad usually have problems with heat, they can fire the plugs cold, but the slightest heat can cause all types of ignition problems.. one easy way to check is to stick a timing light on it when it won't crank and see if it is fireing.. if it is I would still replace it, as it may spark, but not hot enough.. also most haynes manuals have the correct procedure for testing the coil with a multimeter.

[Zakar]

How much larger are the new injectors from factory?? if you just add larger injectors without changing the duty cycle on the fuel map your going to be WAY rich.. for example if your at 40% duty cycle at X rpm at X tps and you swap in 3x larger injectors without adjusting, it will actually flow 120% of what the origional inj's did at the same X rpm X tps


however i'm not familiar with ford FI so i don't know if this is the case.. perhaps a ford FI tuner could speak up..

[Zakar]

wow this forum moves at snail pace

[Arallus]

^^^^^yep

[chetta]

What can I say, we're surrounded by a bunch of Chebby guys. :(

[ls1hybrid]

i know this might challenge your man hood, but have you arranged your plug wirres using the HO firing order (as opposed to the regular 302 firing order). now if this makes no sense or there is no Ho firing order, please disreguard this reply.

[Arallus]

i see what you mean, but it think the high output is the same as the reg. 302


~Steve

[gammey4]

diffrent firing order, but it wouldnt run if he had it wired wrong. 1 and 5 would be 180 iirc.

[88RX7LT1]

Check it out. The coil was shorting out through the tach wire??? The conversion harness (new and big bucks) had a short. Runs like a scalded cat now.

Oh ya. Disregard my sig in this forum; its for the rx7 conversion deal.

[Arallus]

so its running perfectly now? awesome job. i wonder how much that wagon weighs, and whats the out put of the gt40 motor?


~Steve

[gc714]

Come on now, after all that.....you gotta atleast tell us how you figured it out! :)

[chetta]

Come on now, after all that.....you gotta atleast tell us how you figured it out! :)
Yep that's what I want to know too. :D

Congrats on getting it running. :)

[88RX7LT1]

Yep that's what I want to know too. :D

Congrats on getting it running. :)

Thanks guys. Its running great now that the exhaust is done. I have tweecker and am going to the dyno again in the next few weeks to tune. I expect about 280 rwhp. Centrifical supercharger is next.


Recent mods include oversized brake calipers front and back, stainless brake lines and anti-sway bars front and back. I also installed Koni adjustable shocks. Not only is it fast, but it handles well and stops on a dime.

Oh ya, it weighs 3400 lbs with 1/4 tank of gas.



EDIT . . . sig refers to my 88 rx7; sorry for any confusion.