Altenator Wiring.????

[DrHengle]

Ok, Im closing in on the end of the swap heres my question.
The mazda had the one wire altenator.
The new ford had two plugs, one three wire and one two wire.
What needs to be done to get this altenator hooked up into the system correctly.
No I did not use the ford harness in the new system I went carb not efi.
Yes I still have the plugs from the harness for the altenator.
Im not sure what other info I need to give to get the answers i need.
Doc

[DrHengle]

I could have been more specific on the plugs, the 3 wire is the actual altenator plug and the two wire is the regulator plug.

[bud4660]

Well I cant find a breakdown of a five wire. I found one for a built in regulator. It shows the (B+) going to the pos side of the starter relay where the batt hooks. The two (S) ones tie together. The (I) post goes to the gauge. The (A) goes to the pos side of the battery too.
Now its showing one plug to have the two (B+) and a (S). The other plug is showing a (A) and (S) and (I) in it. This is for 1988 model 65 amp alts.

Ok the 1989 shows the second plug not to have the (A) post in it. Its has the (A) post over on the side. Everything else wires the same.

Not sure if this makes sense??

[DrHengle]

Well that makes some sense, first I have to quit going from memory and look before I post

My regulator, the black box bolted to the altentor is marked heavy duty 35-202.
It does have 3 wires and since that post I looked and it has the 3 letters A S I

The altenator also has 3 plugs.
Only 2 of them are marked
Bat ??? Sta


Hmmm ok So I think I see.

Regulator "A" to the Constant Positive Solonoid
Regulator "I" To the Gauge
?? Regulator "S" Will this to to the Altenator "StA"

Assuming that the Altenator Bat is appropriatel marked to go directly to the + Bat Terminal Or should it also go to the + Solonoid,I think It makes no difference either way.
Does the STA hook To the "s" on the Regulator and
What is the center unmarked pin on the altenator??

One last ? the original 1 wire from the Mazda altenator, Is it used at all?

[bud4660]

?? Regulator "S" Will this to to the Altenator "StA"

Yes thats the two (S) ones. Tie those together.

Assuming that the Altenator Bat is appropriatel marked to go directly to the + Bat Terminal Or should it also go to the + Solonoid,I think It makes no difference either way.

Doesnt matter. You need to put a fuseable link in all the B+ wires.

What is the center unmarked pin on the altenator??

Unless its the other (B+) I dont know.

One last ? the original 1 wire from the Mazda altenator, Is it used at all?

Dont know?? What does it go too?? Is it hot or go to the gauge?? I would guess its suppose to be hot.

You know you can buy a one wire alternator from Jegs or Summit.

[DrHengle]

Thanks for that info.
If any one else knows
what the center unmaked pin on the altenator is Id like to know that
and what to do with the original one wire from the mazda harness.
The one wire goes into the large harness I havent broken the harness to trace its origin.

I may end up buying the one wire but if I can get the good one to work Id save the $$ I think it can be done and this info is deffinately a good start.
BTW how big of a fuse would you put on the +'s
Doc

[bud4660]

The altenator also has 3 plugs.

That should be B+ and B+ and S. If so tie the B+ together.

[DrHengle]

So the Unmarked pin on the altenator in the "bat" "???" "sta" is also a B+ therefore, pin 1 and 2 should be linked and lead to the + solonoid. along with the "A" lead from the regulator. correct?

[bud4660]

I dont have a scanner at work so I can show you the diagram I am looking at. It shows the two (B+) going together into a 14ga fuseable link. The (A) comes from the other plug and goes into a 16ga fuseable link then the (B+) wire then another 12ga fuseable link to the pos side of the starter relay. The (S) from one plug goes to the (S) in the other plug. The (I) goes to the gauge.

[DrHengle]

Outstanding, thank you.
I drew up a little schematic based on that, and I think Ive got it.
If you can scan that at home and post it up later. It may be a big help to the next guy. besides Id like to make sure that my schematic looks like the one youve got.
much thanks.
Doc

[bud4660]

Outstanding, thank you.
I drew up a little schematic based on that, and I think Ive got it.
If you can scan that at home and post it up later. It may be a big help to the next guy. besides Id like to make sure that my schematic looks like the one youve got.
much thanks.
Doc

I will see if I can do that for you Doc... :yeah:

[bud4660]

Doc: I hope this works.... :D

[bud4660]

Hey Doc. Was this what you needed?? Did it work?? Did you give up and sell it?? :D lol

[DrHengle]

Im not sure yet, I wired it up that day, the more I look at the diagram, the more it makes sense so I hope so, The hold up is that Im waiting for ups to deliver my new intake So Untill it gets here I cant know if it is going to work. I have been promised that ill have it today,( I was also promised it would be here last Wednesday :mad: ) I hope that I have the results of the experiment by Saturday.
By the way, you came up with that other diagram so quickly, My buddy is haveing a charging problem with a ford 3 post altenator and an external firewall mounted regulator, ( i think its an 81 mustang, this is from memory, but I think that that regulator had 5 pins, He has it plugged into a harness but truth is that harness is a hack job from he!!. Do you have a schematic on how to direct wire that setup and bypass the harness??

[bud4660]

Let me check. I have some older books at home. My computer lost the modem last night again for some reason? So I have to get that fixed before I can post scans again. If nothing else I will check the diagram and post what the post are and where the wires go when I get to work in the morning. :yeah:

[DrHengle]

Bud that sounds great, I appreiciate your efforts. After looking at the last diagram, I completely trust your ability to interpret a schematic, your last call was right on. thanks again.
Doc

[bud4660]

ok Doc. If I can keep this thing on line. The picture of the electronic regulator shows 4 connections. Right to Left are. Field....Stator....A+...
Field goes to Field on the alternator. Stator goes to the ignition switch. A+ goes to the battery. The fourth connector is the one on the left side. It says not used with amp gauge.
The alt looks like it only has a output that goes to the battery pos side. the field goes to the field on the reg. and the stator on it doesnt show to go to anything?? Strange?? Let me do somemore looking and see if I can find a different book. Ok the older book has the same diagram. So I dont know if it does hook to anything?? When I get the bugs out of the computer I will scan the book and post the picture. Hope this helps!!

[DrHengle]

Ok heres the deal, we almost had it but there is a variable. If this were in a ford or the dash light was hooked in the circut it would have worked as forementioned. however, since we have eliminated the light, there was no means to excite the altenator,
Here is what we do to bypass it, and it is working, this is not theory..

Altenator, both B+ to the hot side of the solonoid and Cap off the S its not needed.

Regulator, A pin to the hot side of the solonoid, S to any switched hot and the I is to your amp meter if you have one if not just leave it unhooked,
Viola your in business.

If you have the light in the circut
Altenator. both B+ to the hot side of the solonoid.
Cross the S to the S on the regulator

Rgulator, A to the hot solonoid
S to the S on the altenator
and the I is still the gauge or not used.
Good luck to all, thanks for the help in trouble shooting this.
Doc